In a previous article, we covered how to restore your fuel pump. Those were the days! Disassemble the fuel pump, replace the check valves and diaphragm, and you were back in business. I have always felt fortunate that when I started out in this business, engines had carburetors and emission systems were in their infancy. At the local GM dealer, we repaired or overhauled components to fix them, not just replace pieces. Oh well, those days are over. All I can do is share those early experiences and hope they help you get through what would otherwise be a trying situation. (more…)
There was a time when a component would fail it would require repair or rebuild. But today we throw it into the appropriate recycle pile. Growing up in the 60s and 70s sometimes makes it difficult to trash anything; today it makes more fiscal sense to buy another one. If you worked in a GM dealership in that time period, the philosophy was repair unless it had catastrophic damage. Of course back then metal was used for most components; plastics were for the occasional trim piece. One of the many repairs you had to perform at the dealership was rebuilding windshield wiper motors, distributors, alternators, starters and fuel pumps. (more…)
Your 1963-1982 Corvette front crossmember is subjected to large rocks, unimaginable road debris and damage from repair work (poorly positioned floor jacks). As a result, many, if not all, the frames under C2 and C3 Corvettes have caved-in front crossmembers. The repair tool (Corvette Central part number 182100) will aid in straightening your crossmember if the majority of damage is within the perimeter of the inner forcing plate coverage area. (more…)
Headlight buckets on 1963-1967 Corvettes can be rather difficult to install properly. Ill-fitting assemblies and incorrect installations are common finds . We’ll provide some tips and tricks to do the job properly. (more…)
All-American Look For Your Mid-Year Vette
Story by Jerry Heasley, Vette Magazine
Factory side pipes go on a Vette like a set of pinstripes on Mickey Mantle’s Yankee uniform. The combination just looks right and all-American.
Mike remembered side pipes on his ’67 big block coupe. Although that car is long gone, today he owns a ’66 coupe with no side pipes, officially RPO code N14, catalogued as “Side Mount Exhaust System” for 1965-66-67 Corvettes.
After the installation, Mike admitted the side pipes seemed a little louder than he recalled from the 1960s. Back then he was a foot loose teenager without a wife in the passenger seat.
Of course, a more robust exhaust is one reason for installing side pipes. His base 327 four barrel also felt a little stronger after the installation.
Of course, he got the look. Side pipes, with their aluminum covers, chambered pipes and stainless steel tips add flash and dash to any Mid-Year.
Mike ran into two surprises during the installation. Surprise #1 was he had to cut off an ear of each lower front fender. Surprise #2 was he had to bend back the steel brackets visible beneath the original side molding on each side of the car.
He also discovered the passenger side bend in the factory pipe near the header would not fit. Apparently, the pipes had suffered some damage sometime in the past. Luckily, skillful heating and bending restored them to their original shape. Possible wear and tear on OEM side pipes is why ordering a reproduction set, which saves money, might be the better alternative except for restorers after points in concours judging.
Buying a new set of side pipes from the aftermarket will assure a good fit of the pipes and the option of longer lasting stainless steel.
The installation is fairly straightforward with some important key points included in our picture set.