Adding electric windows is one of the easier upgrades that can make the C3 a little more user-friendly. Although somewhat labor intensive, since it was a factory option, both the mechanical and electric parts of conversion are a bolt-in proposition. There’s no fab work required: no welding, drilling holes through the firewall, or trying to find ways to splice into factory wiring. The only real modification is to cut holes for switches in the plastic parking brake housing, and that’s only if you don’t want to order a new housing with holes already there. No special tools are required, and if you’re mechanically adept, it should take about a day’s work. You’ll need to remove the dash, center console and parking brake housing, in order to route the wiring. (more…)
Whether you are doing a frame off or partially restoring a Shark, the body mounts should be replaced. All rubber products degrade as they age, dry out, and crack. Moisture causes corrosion, eventually tearing the rubber apart as the body mount steel reinforcement sleeves grow larger. Deteriorated body mounts affect door alignment and will eventually this will cause stress cracks and deformed body panels. (more…)
Using aftermarket weatherstrip pieces in the past, we had to choose either adjusting the windows to seal, or adjusting the windows to roll up and down without the door open. There was no way to do both. ’77 and earlier models used a different style rear vertical weatherstrip that wasn’t solid so it made window adjusting only somewhat problematic. Front vertical weatherstrips are a problem on all years. The dense rubber just wouldn’t seal properly to let the window roll freely. Thankfully, newer offerings are as supple as the factory original pieces. (more…)
Automotive door sealing technology has improved dramatically from the early days when rain water came in from all angles. By 1969 GM changed the outer seal strip that wipes the glass clear on those damp mornings to do a good job of keeping water out of the door. In turn it kept water off of the door internals and off the backside of the fiber door panels. By 1984 the door outside seal strip was an integral part of door glass sealing. The downside was they were the most exposed seal strips to date subjecting them to the effects of UV deterioration much quicker than previous year Corvettes. You can help keep them around longer with an application of rubber protectant to replace the rubber solvent compounds removed after each wash job. Products like Adams V.R.T. Vinyl Rubber and Tire Dressing from Corvette Central P/N 106824 will keep your outside seal strips looking good for many years. This dressing brings back that new look without that greasy oily slick look, you can also touch it without fear of it coming off on your hands or clothes.
Many of our 1956 to 1962 Corvette customers report a noticeable vibration or rocking at the base of their windshield. More frequently than not, the windshield mounting posts are snapped off. Over the years, many of these posts have been subjected to questionable repair work, with shims, metal strips and welding being employed to varying degrees of success. In the mid-1980’s, Corvette Central developed a permanent fix for this issue by designing a machining operation which allows the installation of steel tabs that are much more resilient than the originals. Follow along as we describe the post variations, breaks, and solutions to windshield posts.
There are two variations of windshield frame posts. The 1956-58 version has a square notch relief for the door post with the upper window stop (Corvette Central part number 281009). The 1959-62 version has an angled notch to allow for the later style door weatherstrip, which features a built-in stop and continues over the door post (Corvette Central part number 631010). (more…)