For your convenience, below is a list of all C6 Factory Bulletins to date.
Bulletin No.: 08-08-67-013E
October 27, 2010
2005-2011 Chevrolet Corvette
Concern: Snap, Pop, Creak or Rattle Noise from Lift Off Roof Panel While Driving
Models: Equipped with Removable Clear Roof Panel RPO CC3, Removable Sun Roof Panel RPO CF7 or Dual Removable Roof Panels RPO C2L
Important
Check the VIN to determine if the roof falls into the Safety Recall 06041D. On painted roofs, inspect the panel beneath the headliner. If the material is light gray in color, then the roof is Sheet Molded Compound (SMC) and is not in need of the recall. If the panel is charcoal in color, then the roof is Acrylonitrile/Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) and should have been involved with the recall. Follow the procedure outlined in the recall.
Important
If the roof is not involved in the recall or is the transparent roof, verify the roof is a GM roof. Check GMVIS to determine if the vehicle came with a painted or transparent roof. GMVIS will indicate option codes CF7 for a painted roof, CC3 for a transparent roof and C2L if the car was produced with both roofs.
Important
Please drive the vehicle and duplicate the complaint before attempting any repairs. Note where the noise is coming from, paying particular attention to the following specific areas of the roof:
The rear center, rear outer edges, sides, above the door glass, front center and
the front edges
Repair info for each condition is below
Clicking or popping noise coming from the rear area of the door (Condition #1)
Roof weatherstrip itch (Condition #2)
Snapping, pop, creak, or rattle noise coming from the roof, rear center (Condition #3)
Snapping, pop, creak, or rattle noise coming from the roof, rear outer edges (Condition #4)
Snapping, pop, creak, or rattle noise from the roof sides, above the door window (Condition #5)
Snapping, pop, creak, or rattle noise from the roof near the windshield, at the front latch area (Condition #6)
Snapping, pop, creak, or rattle noise from the “A” pillar area (Condition #7)
Condition #1
Customers comment of a clicking or popping noise coming from the rear area of the door.
Cause
There have been reported cases of a clicking noise coming from the door striker area. This condition may be a result of the door striker studs loosening slightly and flexing. Pinpoint the location of the noise by removing the lift off roof panel and driving the car with the windows in the full up position. If the noise is still present when the roof is removed, check the door striker.
Correction
Verify the striker is flexing by pulling outward on the striker and listening for a clicking noise. If the noise is evident, replace the striker.
Condition #2
Important
Roofs are flexible and there is always some movement between the roof and the body. It is important to keep weatherstrips clean and lubricated to allow the roof to have movement without noise. The number one reason for noise in the roof area is often from weatherstrip itch. Maintaining the weatherstrips is a customer responsibility. The frequency of cleaning and applying lubrication may vary from once a month, to once a season, depending on the environment and climate of vehicle operation.
Some customers may comment on an itching noise coming from the roof panel.
Cause #1
The roof weatherstrips may be dirty or lacking lubrication.
Cause #2
The customer may have used a silicon spray such as Armor-all, or plastic cleaners, to lube the weatherstrips. These can leave a residue on the weatherstrip which may cause the roof to make noise.
Correction
1. Remove the lift off roof panel and clean all weatherstrips on the roof and the body with a mild soap and water solution.
2. Check weatherstrips for damage.
Important
Rub the lubrication into the weatherstrips until it is worked into the weatherstrip material. DO NOT leave a thick coating of lubrication on the weatherstrips as it will attract dirt and dust, and create an itch condition.
3. Apply a thin coating of GM Super Lube(R) with PTFE, P/N 12371287 (In Canada, P/N 10953437) to all weatherstrips.
4. Reinstall the roof panel.
Important
Test drive the car with the roof panel installed. If a noise is still present, note the particular area of the noise and use the following conditions/guidelines to determine the necessary repair.
Condition #3
Some customers are commenting that they have a snap, pop, creak, or rattle noise coming from the roof, rear center area.
Cause
This condition may be caused by any of the following:
– Insufficient clearance between the lift off roof panel and the leading edge of the rear roof bow.
– Possible crack at the rear edge of the lift off roof panel.
– Insufficient tension on the roof rear latching mechanism.
Correction
Important
There should be between 3-8 mm (0.120-0.315 in) of clearance between the lift off roof panel and the rear roof bow.
1. Verify there is sufficient gap, and that the lift off roof panel is not hitting the leading edge of the rear roof bow. If this condition exists, adjust the roof panel. Refer to Roof Lift Off Panel Adjustment in SI.
2. Inspect the rear edge of the lift off roof panel for cracks or chips. If a roof panel is dropped, or has been set down hard on the rear edge, it may crack the edge and cause a noise.
3. Check the roof rear latching mechanism. The rear latch should have some resistance when the latch is closed, but it should not be difficult to release. If there is insufficient tension on the latch, the roof may be allowed to move too easily. Adjust the latch by unscrewing the set-screw and rotating the “J” hook of the latch inward to tighten, and outward to loosen. Tighten the set-screw after the “J” hook is adjusted.
Condition #4
Customers may comment of a snap, pop, creak, or rattle noise coming from the roof, rear outboard edges.
Cause
The rear locator pins on the lift off roof panel may be loose, or someone may have attempted to adjust the height of the roof panel to this location.
Correction
1. Remove the rear roof bow trim panel. Refer to Rear Roof Bow Trim Panel Replacement in SI.
Important
Before aligning, ensure that the lift off roof panel rear locator bracket bolts are torqued to specification.
2. Verify proper alignment of the rear locator pins and the rear locators. Refer to Roof Lift Off Panel Adjustment in SI.
3. Apply a coating of GM Super Lube(R) with PTFE, P/N 12371287 (In Canada, P/N 10953437) to the rear locating pins (1) on the roof panel AND the rear locators on the roof bow. This will help to insulate the pins and prevent noise from radiating through the roof panel.
4. Reinstall the rear roof bow trim panel. Refer to Rear Roof Bow Trim Panel Replacement in SI.
Condition #5
Some customers may comment of a snap, pop, creak, or rattle emanating from the side of the roof, above the door window.
Cause
The upper edge of the door windows may be contacting one or more of the screws that attach the roof weatherstrip retainers to the lift off roof panel. To verify this condition, lower the windows approximately 12.7 mm (0.500 in) and test drive the car. If the noise is still present, move ahead to the next condition.
Correction
Inspect the front leading edge of the door windows on both sides for evidence of contact with these screws. This is best done by completing the following steps:
1. Lower both door windows and run your fingernail across the edge of the glass, feeling for chips.
2. If a chip is detected, place a crayon mark on the window below the chip so it can be seen when the window is in the full up position.
3. Close the door, raise the window and note the position of the crayon mark at the weatherstrip.
4. Open the door and check that location for a screw in the weatherstrip retainer. Ensure that the screw is fully seated and there are no burrs on the screw head.
5. Reseat the screw or adjust the door window down to make sure the window is no longer contacting the screw. Check that all weatherstrip retainer screws are fully seated.
Condition #6
Some customers may comment of a snap, pop, creak, or rattle noise coming from the roof at the windshield, near the front latch area.
Cause
This condition may be caused by the nylon roller/slide block inside the left and/or right front roof panel latching handle becoming loose and causing the roller to move on the pin, creating the noise.
Correction
Important
For any latch handle replacement, use only P/N 19206591 (left) and P/N 19206592 (right). These current handles have a revised roller that was redesigned so it does not roll, but now slides across the latch receiver. All 2009-2011 removable roofs (painted and transparent) have the new handle design.
1. If the noise is verified to be coming from the front latch area, inspect the handle roller. identify the design, and the resulting repair, from the two choices below:
– If the roller is round and will spin on its axis (as shown above), they are early design handles and should be replaced. Replace the left and right front lift off roof panel handles with the current handle design parts noted previously, and include the lubrication steps below. Refer to Roof Lift Off Panel Front Latch Handle Replacement, in SI.
Important
Unless there is a concern with the handles or the roller, there is no need to replace the latch handles if they are of the current design.
– If the roller is rounder on the contact side (1), and is flat and secured on the latch side (2), they are current design and DO NOT need replacement.
Important
Before proceeding with the lubrication, inspect the roller area for any excessive glue (as shown in the graphic above). If found, remove the excess glue with a sharp knife.
2. Whether the latch handles are replaced or the vehicle already has the current design, apply lubrication following the steps below:
1. Add a small amount of GM Super Lube (R) with PTFE, to the barrel of the handle attaching bolt. DO NOT get lube on the bolt threads as it will reduce the effectiveness of the tread locking compound.
Important
Verify that the steel plate on the underside of the latch receiver is secured to the receiver. If any motion is detected when the plate is moved up or down, replace the receiver. Because both of the receivers are adjustable up and down, make note of the location of the receiver plate prior to removing it. Too much downward pressure may cause the roof to make noise, and too little can create a wind noise/water leak.
2. Always make sure there is a thin coat of GM Super Lube (R) with PTFE, on the underside of the latch receiver along the path of the roller (2). Also apply a thicker 1 mm (.040 in) coating where the roller rests when the latch is closed (1).
3. After the latch handles have been installed and before reinstalling the roof panel, check the right and left front latch receiver inserts.
1. These can be removed by carefully using a thin blade screwdriver from the underside, and moving the four locking tabs toward the center and pushing the inserts up.
2. Once removed, inspect each insert (1) to verify the cones are not cracked or broken.
Note
The flocking is designed to insulate the cone when roof movement occurs.
3. Also verify that the inserts have an 8 mm (0.31 in) wide wrap of flocking tape toward the top of the cone, as shown above. If the flocking tape is worn or is missing, repair following Corporate Bulletin Number 05-08-59-003E.
Condition #7
Some customers may comment of a snap, pop, creak, or rattle noise coming from the “A” pillar area.
Cause #1
The windshield side garnish moldings may be causing the noise.
Cause #2
The windshield upper garnish molding guides or the windshield header wiring harness may be causing the noise.
Correction
1. Remove the upper and both side windshield garnish moldings. Refer to Windshield Upper Garnish Molding Replacement in SI.
2. Follow Corporate Bulletin Number 05-08-59-003E to add flocking tape to the “A” pillar garnish moldings.
Note
There are electrical wires that run behind the windshield header. There have been some comments about the wire harness vibrating inside the windshield header.
3. Add a piece of foam insulation through the holes where the wire harnesses exit to help prevent the harnesses from rattling under vibration.
Note
There are three molded guides that protrude from the back side of the windshield upper garnish molding.
4. While the windshield upper garnish molding is off, check these guides for any signs of contact. If there is evidence of contact, sand or file the pins shorter to prevent the contact.
5. Reinstall the windshield garnish moldings. Refer to Windshield Upper Garnish Molding Replacement in SI.
Parts Information
Order the left and right handle for each lift off roof panel.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
This bulletin is very interesting. It’s hard to believe touchless car washes could cause glass damage. Better keep away from hydrofluoric acid for sure. GM says the customer pays for this problem.
Bulletin No.: 00-08-48-005D
September 10, 2010
Distortion in Outer Surface of Vehicle Glass
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-08-48-005C (Section 08 – Body and Accessories).
Distortion in the outer surface of the windshield glass, door glass or backlite glass may appear after the vehicle has:
– Accumulated some mileage.
– Been frequently washed in automatic car washes, particularly “touchless” car washes.
This distortion may look like a subtle orange peel pattern, or may look like a drip or sag etched into the surface of the glass.
Some car wash solutions contain a buffered solution of hydrofluoric acid which is used to clean the glass. This should not cause a problem if used in the correct concentration. However, if not used correctly, hydrofluoric acid will attack the glass, and over time, will cause visual distortion in the outer surface of the glass which cannot be removed by scraping or polishing.
If this condition is suspected, look at the area of the windshield under the wipers or below the belt seal on the side glass. The area of the glass below the wipers or belt seal will not be affected and what looks like a drip or sag may be apparent at the edge of the wiper or belt seal. You may also see a line on the glass where the wiper blade or the belt seal contacts the glass.
Important
The repair will require replacing the affected glass and is not a result of a defect in material or workmanship. Therefore, is not covered by New Vehicle Warranty.
Bulletin No.: 02-08-42-001D
June 21, 2010
Headlamp Lens Overheating When Covered and Chemical Damage to Exterior Polycarbonate Headlamp Lenses
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars
The bulletin is being issued to make dealers and customers aware of chemical damage that may be caused to exterior polycarbonate headlamp lenses. Most late model vehicles have these types of headlamp lenses. This material is used because of its temperature and high impact resistance.
A variety of chemicals can cause crazing or cracking of the headlamp lens. Headlamp lenses are very sensitive. Care should be exercised to avoid contact with all exterior headlamp lenses when treating a vehicle with any type of chemical, such as those recommended for rail dust removal. Rubbing compound, grease tar and oil removers, tire cleaners, cleaner waxes and even car wash soaps in too high a concentration may also attribute to this condition. This could result in the need to replace the entire headlamp housing.
Warning
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses.
Care should be taken to not cover headlamps with shop mats or fender covers if the vehicle is being serviced with the headlamps or DRL illuminated. Covering an illuminated lamp can cause excessive heat build up and crazing/deformation of the lens may occur. The degradation of the lens can be unnoticeable at first and eventually become hairline cracks in the lens. In extreme cases, it could cause the lens to deform. This damage can also be caused by aftermarket shields that are often tinted in color.
Once a heat buildup is generated by the headlamp, a degradation of the headlamp lens begins. This degradation of the lens can be unnoticeable at first and eventually manifest as spider cracks. In more extreme cases, it will begin to melt the lens of the headlamp.
Notice
Headlamps damaged by chemicals, improper cleaning, or overheating due to being covered are not covered under the new vehicle warranty.
Better think twice about major engine modifications if you want your GM warranty to stay in effect. PCM programming would be required for any major camshaft and cylinder head work.
Bulletin No.: 09-06-04-026B
April 07, 2010
Identifying Non-GM (Aftermarket) Engine and Transmission Calibrations for V8 Gas Engines Using Tech 2(R) or Global Diagnostic System (GDS)
Models:
2006-2010 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
General Motors has identified an increasing number of engine, transmission and catalytic converter part failures that are the result of non-GM (aftermarket) engine and transmission control calibrations being used.
When alteration to the GM-released engine or transmission control calibrations occurs, it subjects powertrain and driveline components (engine, transmission, transfer case, driveshaft and rear axle) to stresses that were not tested by General Motors. It is because of these unknown stresses, and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed – even if the non-GM control module calibration is subsequently removed.
Warranty coverage is based on the equipment and calibrations that were released on the vehicle at time of sale, or subsequently updated by GM. That’s because GM testing and validation matches the calibration to a host of criteria that is essential to assure reliability, durability and emissions performance over the life of the warranty coverage and beyond. Stresses resulting from calibrations different from those tested and released by GM can damage or weaken components, leading to poor performance and or shortened life.
Additionally, non-GM (aftermarket) issued engine control modifications often do not meet the same emissions performance standards as GM issued calibrations. Depending on state statutes, individuals who install engine control module calibrations that put the vehicle outside the parameters of emissions certification standards may be subject to fines and/or penalties.
This bulletin outlines a procedure to identify the presence of non-GM (aftermarket) calibrations. GM recommends performing this check whenever a hard part failure is seen on internal engine or transmission components, or before an engine assembly or transmission assembly is being replaced under warranty. It is also recommended that the engine calibration verification procedure be performed whenever diagnostics indicate that catalytic converter replacement is indicated.
The PQC has a process to confirm the ECM/PCM calibration is GM issued. The PQC will require a picture of the engine calibration verification screen, as outlined in this bulletin, before authorizing any V8 gas powered engine replacement.
If a non-GM calibration is found and verification has taken place through GM, the remaining powertrain and driveline warranty will be blocked and notated in GMVIS and the dealership will be notified. This block prevents any UNAUTHORIZED warranty claim submission.
Bulletin No.: 09-07-31-001
Date: Jan. 08, 2009
Concern:
Low Clutch Pedal, Difficult to Shift (Inspect/Replace Clutch and Pressure Plate)
2005-2009 Chevrolet Corvette, Corvette Z06
Some customers may comment on a low clutch pedal. In some vehicles, the pedal may appear to operate very close to the floor. Customers may also have difficulty shifting.
Cause
The low pedal concern may be the result of a clutch that has prematurely forward adjusted.
Correction
Important: BEFORE ANY PARTS ARE REPLACED, follow the procedure listed below. DO NOT remove the cover to inspect.
Inspect the fluid level from the side of the reservoir. If additional fluid is required, use only DOT 4 fluid from an unopened container.
1. Inspect the clutch hydraulic system for damage and leaks. Repair as necessary.
2. With the engine off, the transmission placed in neutral and the parking brake applied, verify that the clutch reservoir is filled to the “fill line.”
3. If the pedal is on the floor, pull the pedal back to the full up stop and hold for one second. The fill port in the master cylinder is at the very top of the stroke. If the pedal is not fully returned to the top of the stroke, new fluid cannot enter the master cylinder from the reservoir.
4. Check the reservoir to ensure the fluid is still full.
5. Drive the vehicle to ensure proper clutch engagement.
Note: DO NOT use P/N 24246378 for vehicles with this condition. P/N 24246378 can be used for replacement only in cases where premature forward adjustment is NOT suspected.
6. If the cause of the customer’s concern hasn’t been determined, replace the clutch and pressure plate assembly with P/N 24248985. Refer to Clutch Assembly Replacement in SI.
Date: March 31, 2009
Concern:
Use of Chrome or Chrome Plated Steel Valve Caps on Aluminum Valve Stems
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars
This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers about the use of chrome or chrome-plated steel valve caps on aluminum valve systems.
Dealers/customers cannot install a chrome or chrome-plated steel valve caps on an aluminum valve system. If this happens, the contact between the different metals results in galvanic corrosion, which will seize the cap to the stem and may fracture the stem when attempting to remove the cap.
Inform customers of corrosion issues when chrome or chrome-plated steel valve caps are used on aluminum valve stems.
Use only plastic or aluminum caps with aluminum valve systems.
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002E
Date: March 15, 2010
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn and Saab)
Important
You may give a copy of this bulletin to the customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners. These stains are frequently milky or greenish in appearance. They result from using cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome wheels (or any wheels). Soap and water is usually sufficient to clean chrome wheels, but if a cleaner must be used on chrome wheels, GM Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner, P/N 1052929 (in Canada, use P/N 10953202), or equivalent, is recommended. Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome wheels (or any wheels).
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal. Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the calipers.
Important
GM Chrome and Wire Wheel cleaner, P/N 1052929 (in Canada, P/N 10953202), has a mild phosphoric acid, which will not stain the chrome. However, do not use this product on clear-coated aluminum wheels.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean, clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts, lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel.
Notice
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels
Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently possible.
Important
Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time. Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important
Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! “GM of Canada” dealers require prior Warranty Manager approval.
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER, EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with GM Chrome and Wire Wheel Cleaner, P/N 1052929 (in Canada, use P/N 10953202). Follow the instructions as indicated on the bottle for stubborn stains. This step will clean and may reduce wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice
Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a 50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES, only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the polish, the staining will be diminished.
4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the towel.
5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If continued applications fail to improve the appearance further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications, restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting. In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of cleaning will restore the finish.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be available from other sources.
Bulletin No.: 09-03-10-014
Date: November 04, 2009
Subject: Information on Painted Caliper Logo Damage
Models:
2006-2010 Corvette Z06
2010 Corvette Grand Sport
Note:
Do NOT use Brake Clean, carburetor or other solvent-based cleaners on the brake calipers.
Solvent-based cleaners may cause the red Corvette logo on the front and rear Grand Sport brake calipers or the silver Corvette logo on the front and rear Z06 brake calipers to smear. The base caliper color (silver or red) can also be damaged by these types of cleaners.
Use soap and water to clean the brake calipers.
Note
When using any GM-approved cleaning products, remember to follow all manufacturer’s directions regarding correct product usage, necessary safety precautions and appropriate disposal of any vehicle care product.
Please share this information with customers as appropriate.
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-020E
Date: March 03, 2010
Subject: Diagnostic Information for MIL Illuminated with DTC P1825, P182E or P1915 Found Current or as History Code in TCM, No PRNDL Display, Potential No Engine Crank
Models:
2006-2010 Chevrolet Corvette
The following diagnostic information will aid the technician if the MIL is illuminated with DTC P1825, P182E or P1915. The DTC may be found current or as a history code in the TCM along with a no PRNDL display and the potential for no engine crank.
1. Use the Tech 2(R) to capture and record Freeze Frame/Failure Data for all DTCs set. Review the data to determine:
– Vehicle speed, commanded gear, transmission temperature, throttle position, transmission ratio, transmission input and output speed sensor RPM when DTC set (use to attempt to duplicate failure)
– IMS A/B/C/P and IMS state
2. Using the Tech 2(R), navigate to transmission data and scroll down to IMS. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, observe the IMS A/B/C/P switch states and IMS states for each shift lever detent position. The chart following this list shows the correct states.
3. If all IMS readings are normal, monitor the PNP status in the engine data list during DTC setting to isolate a possible open or short to ground on the dedicated PNP signal between the TEHCM and the ECM.
4. If the vehicle is a 2009 CTS, STS or SRX, proceed to Step 5 in the History DTC section below before continuing with any additional evaluations.
5. If all IMS and PNP readings are normal, the condition is intermittent in nature and determination of the defective component will be made based on freeze frame data and previous repair history or warranty data. Proceed to History DTC below. If the readings are not as specified above, the fault is still active. Proceed to the Active DTC section below to determine which component(s) is defective.
HISTORY DTC
If all readings are normal per Step 2 above, capture and record Freeze Frame/Failure Data, clear DTCs and attempt to duplicate the fail conditions.
1. If the DTC does not reset and the original freeze frame data reports an IMS A/B/C/P code of “HLLL” and the IMS state of “Neutral/Drive 6”, complete the following:
Important
Typical Freeze Frame operating conditions: ISS >500 RPM, OSS =0 RPM or low value, Engine Torque >30 Nm.
Important
There is no calibration update for vehicles equipped with a 6L90 RPO MYD transmission or 2008 model year vehicles. These calibrations were updated before production began.
– Update the TCM calibration file to the latest released on TIS2WEB.
– Inspect the shift cable for incorrect routing, kinks, severe bends and/or a damaged or twisted rubber boot at the transmission end of the cable.
– Check and ensure proper cable adjustment.
– Determine if the shift lever can be hung-up between Neutral and Drive 6. If so, there may be excessive drag in the system.
– Move the shift lever through each detent position, ensuring positive detent feel. If any concern is noted, remove the transmission oil pan and repeat the shift lever movement. Ensure that the detent spring roller moves to the bottom of the valley on the detent plate for each shift lever position. Inspect the detent spring roller and ensure it is centered on the detent plate. The spring arms should not be rubbing on either the IMS arm or detent plate.
– After completing the above steps, test drive the vehicle, moving the shifter through all detent positions. If no issues are found, ensure all DTC codes are cleared from history and return the vehicle to the customer. If the vehicle has been returned to the dealer with this Freeze Frame bit codes after repairs, contact the person(s) below in Step 4.
2. If the DTC does not reset and original freeze frame data reports an IMS A/B/C/P code of “HHLH” and IMS state of “Blank”, complete the following:
Important
Typical Freeze Frame operating conditions: ISS >500 RPM, OSS >0 RPM, Vehicle Speed >0 MPH
– Replace the Internal Mode Switch (IMS) if the Vehicle Build Date is prior to March 31, 2007. If not, continue with this bulletin.
Important
There is no calibration update for vehicles equipped with a 6L90 RPO MYD transmission or 2008 model year vehicles. These calibrations were updated before production began.
– Update the TCM calibration file to the latest released on TIS2WEB.
– After completing the above steps, test drive the vehicle, moving the shifter through all detent positions. If no issues are found, ensure all DTC codes are cleared from history and return the vehicle to the customer.
3. If the DTC does not reset and original freeze frame data reports an IMS A/B/C/P code of “HHHL” and IMS state of “Invalid”, complete the following:
Important
Typical Freeze Frame operating conditions: ISS >500 RPM, OSS =0 RPM, Vehicle Speed >0 MPH
– Replace the Internal Mode Switch (IMS) if the Vehicle Build Date is prior to March 31, 2007. If not, continue with this bulletin.
Important
There is no calibration update for vehicles equipped with a 6L90 RPO MYD transmission or 2008 model year vehicles. These calibrations were updated before production began.
– Update the TCM calibration file to the latest released on TIS2WEB.
– After completing the above steps, test drive the vehicle, moving the shifter through all detent positions. If no issues are found, ensure all DTC codes are cleared from history and return the vehicle to the customer.
4. If the DTC does not reset and original freeze frame data reports an IMS A/B/C/P code of LLLH, LLHL, LHLL or PNP Switch is P/N in all gears, failure is a short to ground condition and is most likely in the Control Solenoid (with body and TCM) Valve Assembly (TEHCM), complete the following:
– Obtain the following data and contact the PQC as the Control Solenoid (with body and TCM) Valve Assembly (TEHCM) is currently on restriction. The PQC will engage engineering for additional diagnostic support.
– Capture or record freeze frame or fail records if a DTC is set.
– Document the diagnostics completed leading to the decision to replace the control solenoid valve and transmission control module.
Important
There is no calibration update for vehicles equipped with a 6L90 RPO MYD transmission or 2008 model year vehicles. These calibrations were updated before production began.
– Update the TCM calibration file to the latest released on TIS2WEB.
– After completing the above steps, test drive the vehicle, moving the shifter through all detent positions. If no issues are found, ensure all DTC codes are cleared from history and return the vehicle to the customer.
5. If the DTC does not reset and the original freeze frame data reports an IMS A/B/C/P code of LLLH and the vehicle is a 2009 CTS, STS or SRX, the condition is most likely caused by an incorrectly adjusted shift linkage.
Important
Typical Freeze Frame operating conditions: ISS and OSS both =0 RPM or ISS and OSS both >0 RPM and/or vehicle is in some drive gear (transmission gear ratio matches one of the forward gear ratios).
– Using a Tech 2(R), pull backward firmly/hard on the shifter to verify that the IMS A/B/C/P code remains at the correct HLLH reading. If it toggles to LLLH or LLLL, the linkage is not adjusted properly.
– Perform the Shift Control Linkage Adjustment as detailed in SI.
– After adjustment, using a Tech 2(R), pull backward firmly/hard on the shifter to verify that the IMS A/B/C/P code remains at the correct HLLH reading. If it toggles to LLLH or LLLL, the linkage is not adjusted properly. Repeat the adjustment.
– If no shifter adjustment issues are found, return to Step 4.
ACTIVE DTC/FAULT ACTIVE
If the fault is still active per Step 2 above, or after a test drive, continue with component tests defined below:
1. Ensure proper system performance:
– Inspect the shift cable for incorrect routing, kinks, severe bends and/or a damaged or twisted rubber boot at the transmission end of the cable.
– Check and ensure proper cable adjustment.
– Remove the transmission oil pan and repeat the shift lever movement, ensuring that the detent spring roller moves to the bottom of the valley on the detent plate for each shift lever position. Inspect the detent spring roller and ensure it is centered on the detent plate. The spring arms should not be rubbing on either the IMS arm or detent plate.
2. Disconnect the IMS connector at the Control Solenoid (w/body and TCM) Valve Assembly (TEHCM). With the Tech 2(R) connected and the ignition ON and engine OFF, the Tech 2(R) should report all IMS states A/B/C/P as high (H) and the PNP Switch should display “In Gear”.
– If any of the A/B/C/P circuits displays low (L), the TEHCM is faulty and should be replaced. If the Vehicle Build Date is prior to March 31, 2007, also replace the IMS.
– If the PNP Switch Circuit (Tech 2(R) Engine data) displays “Park/Neutral”, a short exists in the TEHCM or the wiring connecting it to the ECM. Disconnect the transmission pass-through connector. Check for continuity between the pass-through P/N Signal pin 3 (refer to Automatic Transmission Inline 16-Way Connector End View in SI) and the valve body assembly. If continuity exists, a short to ground is present in the TEHCM and it should be replaced. If the Vehicle Build Date is prior to March 31, 2007, also replace the IMS. If there is no continuity, the problem is outside the transmission.
Important
The bad bit should be consistent with the bad bit identified in Step 2.
3. Connect a 3-amp fused jumper wire between the common pin (Pin A) and pins B, C, D & F in the TEHCM IMS connector (refer to Automatic Transmission Internal Connector End Views in SI). As each circuit (B, C, D & F) is grounded with ignition ON, engine OFF, the Tech 2(R) should display low (L) for the IMS bit.
– If any of the A/B/C/P circuits displays high (H) when grounded, the TEHCM is faulty and should be replaced. If the Vehicle Build Date is prior to March 31, 2007, also replace the IMS.
– If Pin F in the PNP Switch Circuit (Tech 2(R) Engine data) displays “In Gear” when grounded, an open exist in the TEHCM or the wiring connecting it to the ECM. Disconnect the transmission pass-through connector. Check for continuity between the pass-through P/N Signal Pin 3 (refer to Automatic Transmission Inline 16-Way Connector End View in SI) and TEHCM IMS connection Pin F (refer to Automatic Transmission Internal Connector End Views in SI). If there is continuity, the problem is outside the transmission. If there is no continuity, replace the TEHCM. If the Vehicle Build Date is prior to March 31, 2007, also replace the IMS.
Important
The bad bit should be consistent with the bad bit identified in Step 2.
4. If the two tests above indicate correct TEHCM operation and the condition still exists, the IMS is faulty and should be replaced.
Important
There is no calibration update for vehicles equipped with a 6L90 RPO MYD transmission or 2008 model year vehicles. These calibrations were updated before production began.
5. Update the TCM calibration file to the latest released on TIS2WEB.
Story and photos courtesy Chris Petris
My 2005 C6 C orvette05* on the dash computer reads ” Service Ride Control ” the vette is kept mint condition and 80,000 miles. how serious is the notice ? exactly what is to be done to correct this issue ?
It’s impossible to say without a proper diagnosis, I recommend having the car inspected by a certified mechanic.
2007 C6 will not shift from Park to Drive. Is there is a recall for this problem.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/how-tos/a/c6-corvette-total-recalls-and-technical-service-bulletins-368389
I OWN A 2007 LS2 CORVETTE, I HEAR A CLACKING NOISE COMING FROM UNDER THE DRIVER’S SIDE DASH JUST ABOVE THE CLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL. IT SOUNDS ELECTRICAL, CLICK,CLICK,ETC. WHEN DRIVING NORMAL SPEED ON NORMAL PAVEMENT. I’VE LOOKED INTO THE PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR AREA NO FAILURE. I’VE READ EVERYTHING POSSIBLE AND CAN’T FIND THE SOLUTION. IT’S NOT COMING FROM THE ENGINE BAY. I KNOW FOR A FACT IT’S JUST ABOVE MY FEET AND IN THE DASH, I’D PAY GOOD MONEY IF SOMEONE COULD TELL ME WHAT THE PART WAS OR FAILURE. THEN I COULD HAVE A CHEVY DEALER MAKE THE REPAIR, THANKS IN ADVANCE.
We recommend taking the car to a certified Corvette technician.